Red Rock, Blue Water

· Travel team
Lykkers, in the borderlands of southern Utah and northern Arizona, the Colorado River pools behind Glen Canyon Dam and spreads into one of the most visually surreal bodies of water in the American West. Lake Powell stretches across 2,000 miles of shoreline—more than the entire Pacific coast of the continental United States—threading vivid blue water through narrow red sandstone canyons, past towering buttes, and into hidden alcoves that feel like they belong on another planet. The gateway town of Page, Arizona, puts all of it within reach.
Houseboat Experience
The signature way to explore Lake Powell is by houseboat—floating accommodations that allow multiday exploration of remote canyons inaccessible by road. Budget-tier houseboats (46 to 48 feet) rent for approximately $5,000 to $6,200 per week. Mid-range vessels (59 to 62 feet) cost $5,000 to $8,200 per week. Luxury models (75 feet and above) command $7,500 to $22,000+ weekly. All prices exclude fuel, taxes, and fees—fuel alone can add $300 to $800 depending on engine usage. Wahweap Marina and Antelope Point Marina near Page are the primary rental locations. Staff provide a boating orientation before departure, so no prior experience is required, though basic comfort at the helm is recommended.
Antelope Canyon
The most famous canyon on the planet sits just outside Page on Navajo Nation land. Guided tours—which are mandatory—cost approximately $100 to $120 per person, including a $15 Navajo Park Fee for visitors aged 8 and older. Upper Antelope slot Canyon offers ground-level access through a flat, sandy corridor where light beams from above during midday hours. Lower Antelope Canyon involves descending staircases into narrower, deeper passages with equally dramatic light play. Both tours last approximately 1 to 1.5 hours. Booking one to two months in advance is essential—prime time (11:00 AM to 1:00 PM for optimal light beams) sell out fastest.
Horseshoe Bend
This iconic viewpoint—where the Colorado River curves in a near-perfect horseshoe 1,000 feet below—sits just south of Page. The trail is 1.5 miles round trip, mostly flat but entirely exposed with no shade. The viewpoint itself is free, though parking at the trailhead costs $10 per vehicle. Sunrise visits deliver the softest light and fewest crowds. Midday sun illuminates the river below most dramatically but brings the harshest hiking conditions—carrying at least one liter of water per person is essential even for this short walk. Guardrails protect the viewing area, but the cliffs remain genuinely steep.
Glen Canyon Fees
The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area charges $30 per vehicle for a seven-day pass. A Glen Canyon-specific annual pass costs $55. The America the Beautiful annual pass at $80 covers this and all other national parks and recreation areas for 12 months—the best value for anyone visiting multiple federal lands. The pass covers vehicle entry, beach access, and use of developed areas along the lakeshore.
More Slot Canyons
Beyond Antelope Canyon, the region offers additional slot canyon experiences with fewer crowds. Buckskin Gulch—one of the longest slot canyons in the world—begins at Wire Pass in Utah, roughly 45 minutes from Page. A day-use permit costs $6 per person per day, purchased online. The hike is moderate to strenuous depending on distance covered, with sections requiring wading through standing water during wet periods. A critical safety note applies to all slot canyons: flash floods without warning and can occur even when skies are clear directly overhead. Checking weather forecasts for the entire watershed before entering any slot canyon is not optional—it is essential.
Where to Stay
Page offers accommodation from budget motels to lakeside resorts. Budget options start from $60 to $110 per night. Mid-range properties including Hyatt Place Page Lake Powell, Best Western View of Lake Powell Hotel, and Hampton Inn range from $120 to $170 nightly. The Lake Powell Resort at Wahweap Marina delivers on-the-water views and marina access from approximately $150 to $280 per night. Camping at Wahweap Campground costs $25 to $40 per night with hookups, or $15 to $20 for tent-only sites. The Page Lake Powell Campground offers unique covered-wagon glamping options from approximately $70 to $120 per night.
Eating in Page
Page's restaurant scene is modest but functional. Sit-down meals at local restaurants cost $15 to $35 per person. Several taco and burrito spots serve generous portions for $8 to $14. The nearest full-service supermarket offers groceries for self-catering—essential for houseboat trips—at standard American prices. Stocking up before departure saves significantly compared to marina convenience stores, where prices carry a remote-location premium. Bringing a cooler with pre-prepared meals is standard practice for houseboat rentals.
Friends, Lake Powell and Glen Canyon deliver a landscape where red rock, blue water, and slot canyon light combine into something that looks digitally enhanced but is entirely, stunningly real. The colors are deeper, the canyons narrower, and the silence heavier than any photograph suggests. If you had a week on a houseboat with 2,000 miles of canyon shoreline to explore, which direction would you point the bow first?