Readers, on the western tip of São Miguel Island in the Azores, Portugal, a volcanic crater nearly three kilometers wide holds two lakes so close together they appear to be one—yet each reflects a distinctly different color. Lagoa Azul glows blue while Lagoa Verde shimmers green, separated by a narrow bridge that crosses the strait between them. Local legend says a princess with green eyes and a shepherd with blue eyes wept when forced apart, and their tears filled the crater in matching hues. Science points to differences in algae and light reflection—but standing at the rim, looking down, the legend feels more convincing.

Best Viewpoints

Two elevated viewpoints deliver the full dramatic scale of the Sete Cidades caldera. Miradouro da Vista do Rei—the most famous—sits on the southern rim and provides a sweeping panorama of both lakes, the connecting bridge, the village below, and the ocean beyond. Access is free and the viewpoint has parking, though spaces fill quickly by mid-morning. Boca do Inferno (Grota do Inferno), on the northern rim, offers an equally spectacular perspective from a higher elevation, often with fewer visitors. Both viewpoints are accessible by car via winding mountain roads—arriving before 10:00 AM increases the chance of clear skies, as clouds and fog roll in frequently throughout the day. Checking live webcams on the Visit Azores website before driving is a smart strategy.

Crater Hiking

The PR3 SMI trail descends from Vista do Rei down into the caldera to the village of Sete Cidades—a moderate, mostly downhill hike of approximately 8 kilometers taking two to three hours. The trail passes through pastureland, forest, and lakeside paths, with the twin lakes growing larger with every step. Since the trail is one-directional (downhill), most hikers arrange a taxi back to the starting point—approximately $15 to $22 (€14 to €20). The Serra Devassa trail (PRC05 SMI) offers a longer loop through higher terrain, passing several smaller crater lakes hidden in the landscape. All hiking trails are free, though some trails on private farmland may require a small access fee.

Lake Activities

Kayaking on the twin lakes is one of the most intimate ways to experience the caldera from water level. Guided kayak tours cost approximately $30 to $50 (€28 to €45) per person for a two-hour session including equipment and instruction. Cycling around the caldera rim offers an alternative perspective—bike rentals in Ponta Delgada, the island's main city, cost approximately $15 to $25 (€14 to €22) per day. The Ponta da Ferraria natural thermal pools, located on the nearby coast, provide a free-entry ocean swimming experience where volcanic hot springs meet Atlantic cold water—best visited at low tide.

Getting There

Sete Cidades sits on São Miguel Island, the largest island in the Portuguese Azores archipelago. Flights from mainland Lisbon to Ponta Delgada (PDL) take approximately 2.5 hours, with round-trip fares from $100 to $330 (€90 to €300) depending on season and advance booking. Direct flights from North American cities (Boston, New York, Toronto) operate during summer months, with round-trip fares from $350 to $700. From Ponta Delgada, Sete Cidades is approximately a 40-minute drive west. Renting a car is strongly recommended for exploring São Miguel—daily rates range from $10 to $40 (€9 to €35) in low season and $60 to $100 (€55 to €92) in peak summer. Public buses serve the area but with limited frequency.

Where to Stay

A handful of charming accommodations sit in or near the Sete Cidades village, offering the advantage of experiencing the crater in early morning or evening light after day visitors depart. The Sete Cidades Lake Lodge provides wooden bungalows from approximately $65 to $110 (€60 to €100) per night. Lake cabins and rural guesthouses range from $55 to $100 (€50 to €90). Most visitors stay in Ponta Delgada, where budget hostels start from $50 to $82 (€45 to €75) per night, mid-range hotels range from $100 to $165 (€90 to €150), and upscale resorts from $165 to $440 (€150 to €400).

Eating on São Miguel

The Azores offer exceptional food value by European standards. The "prato do dia" (dish of the day) at local restaurants costs approximately $9 to $13 (€8 to €12) and typically includes a full meal with fresh fish or stew, rice, and salad. Dinner at mid-range restaurants runs $20 to $38 (€18 to €35) per person. Coffee and a traditional pastry cost $4 to $8 (€4 to €7). Supermarkets in Ponta Delgada provide groceries for self-catering at prices well below mainland European averages. Fresh local pineapple—grown in distinctive Azorean greenhouses—is a specialty worth seeking out at any market.

Friends, Sete Cidades is the kind of place that makes you question whether nature operates on a different design standard in the Azores—twin lakes in a volcanic crater, each a different color, surrounded by green walls of grass so vivid they look artificial. The legend of the princess and the shepherd is charming, but the reality is more astonishing than any folktale. Have you ever stood at the edge of a crater and realized the most beautiful thing about it was not the rim, but what filled the space below?