The Lake Below the Summit
Kwame Johnson
| 27-07-2026

· Travel team
Friends, in the Italian Alps of Lombardy, a lake shaped like an inverted Y fills a glacially carved valley so deep that the water reaches 410 meters—the deepest point of any lake in Italy. Lake Como has drawn travelers for centuries with its combination of lakeside villas, subtropical gardens, mountain hiking, and village-to-village ferry connections. Monte Grona—a 1,736-meter summit accessible from the village of Breglia near Menaggio—delivers a 360-degree panorama that includes Lake Como, Lake Lugano, and the Swiss Alps in a single sweep. The experience of climbing from a lakeside ferry dock to a high-altitude alpine viewpoint and returning in time for an evening stroll through Bellagio's waterfront creates a day that compresses two entirely different landscapes into one.
Monte Grona Hike
The Monte Grona trail begins in Breglia, a small village above Menaggio reachable by local bus (C13 line) or by car along a narrow mountain road—a small parking fee may apply at the upper trailhead. The standard route (Via Normale) climbs through forest and meadows to Rifugio Menaggio (1,383 meters)—a staffed mountain hut offering food, drinks, and shelter—before continuing to the 1,736-meter summit. The Via Direttissima offers a steeper, more exposed alternative involving light scrambling with fixed chains—suitable for confident hikers. Round-trip hiking time from Breglia is approximately 4 to 6 hours. Rifugio Menaggio operates daily from late May through September, and weekends during winter. Sturdy hiking boots are essential.
Ferry Network
The Navigazione Laghi ferry system connects Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio, and dozens of smaller lakeside towns on regular schedules. One-way standard ferry tickets cost approximately $4 to $13 (€4 to €12) for short routes, with longer journeys at $16 to $22 (€15 to €20). Hydrofoil (fast service) tickets carry a small surcharge. Day passes provide the best value for visitors planning multiple crossings—unlimited travel across the central lake zone for approximately $16 to $22 (€15 to €20). Tickets are available at terminal counters or on board at smaller docks. Peak-season queues (June through August) for popular routes—especially Bellagio to Varenna—require arriving 20 to 30 minutes early. Schedules change seasonally—checking navigazionelaghi.it before each travel day is recommended.
Villa Gardens
Lake Como's historic villas—built by aristocratic families over centuries—are among the most visited attractions on the lake. Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina features botanical gardens and art collections— entry costs approximately $19 (€17.50), with family tickets (two adults and two children) at $38 (€35). Villa del Balbianello in Lenno—famous for its dramatic lakeside setting—charges approximately $16 (€15) for garden-only access, with advance booking strongly recommended as guided villa tours sell out quickly. Villa Melzi in Bellagio and Villa Monastero in Varenna offer lakefront garden walks at comparable prices. Garden-only tickets are consistently cheaper than full museum access.
Where to Stay
Bellagio—positioned at the junction of Lake Como's three arms—is the most popular base but commands premium prices. Budget rooms start from approximately $155 to $190 (€140 to €170) per night, with average hotels running $275 to $440+ (€250 to €400+). Varenna—a quieter, more intimate village across the lake—offers slightly lower prices and equal scenic quality. Budget travelers save significantly by staying in less-touristed villages: Domaso, Nesso, or Lenno provide lakefront accommodation from approximately $88 to $155 (€80 to €140). Lecco—at the lake's southern arm—serves as an affordable hiking base from approximately $66 to $110 (€60 to €100). Winter rates (November through March) drop to $120 to $165 (€110 to €150) even in premium locations.
Eating at the Lake
Lakeside restaurant dining is predictably expensive—main courses with a view run $20 to $40 (€18 to €36). Avoiding prime-view restaurants for every meal is the most effective budget strategy. Local markets (Conad City and similar) provide fresh ingredients for picnics at approximately $8 to $14 (€7 to €13) per person—and Como's mountain trails and lakeside benches offer picnic settings that rival any restaurant terrace. Standing espresso at a café counter costs $1.30 to $2.20 (€1.20 to €2)—sitting at a table doubles or triples the price. A casual trattoria lunch in a non-waterfront location costs approximately $14 to $22 (€13 to €20) per person.

Lykkers, Lake Como is a place where the vertical and the horizontal coexist in unusually close proximity—a morning ferry ride across flat turquoise water, an afternoon summit climb to 1,736 meters, and an evening garden stroll past centuries-old villas, all within a single day and without a car. The lake's depth, the mountains' height, and the villages' intimacy create a compression of landscape experiences that few European destinations can match. Monte Grona delivers the altitude; the ferry delivers the access; and the villas deliver the cultural layer that turns a beautiful lake into something with centuries of accumulated meaning. When you travel, do you prefer the view from the summit or the view from the water—or is the real pleasure in moving between the two?