Hey Lykkers, the Bernina Express is one of those bucket-list journeys that lives up to the hype. The bright red train climbs from the Swiss Alps, crosses the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway, and drops into Italy, passing glaciers, frozen lakes, and nearly 200 bridges along the way.

But here's the thing: most people just sit in their seat for four hours and call it done. You can do better. Here are six experiences that turn a scenic train ride into a proper adventure.

Book the Panoramic Carriage (But Know What You're Paying For)

The Bernina Express panoramic car has curved windows that stretch into the roof, giving you an uninterrupted view of the peaks and valleys.

It's the classic experience, and it's worth it for the first-time rider. Just know that the panoramic surcharge is separate from your ticket, and reservations are mandatory. In 2026, seat reservations run around CHF 28 for the short route between St. Moritz and Tirano, and CHF 32–36 for the full Chur–Tirano journey depending on the season. That converts to roughly US$32–42 depending on exchange rates. If you're traveling on a budget or want to hop off at stations, the regional trains run the exact same track with openable windows for a fraction of the cost. The panoramic car is an experience, not a better view.

Get Off at Alp Grüm and Eat Pizzoccheri

This is the stop that people remember. Alp Grüm sits at 2,091 meters, and the station terrace looks straight onto the Palü Glacier and down into the Poschiavo Valley. The train usually pauses here long enough for photos, but do yourself a favor and actually get off. Walk into the station restaurant and order the pizzoccheri, a traditional Lombardy pasta made with cheese and potatoes. One traveler described the meal as excellent and reasonably priced for the region. Catch a later regional train to continue your journey. Expect to pay roughly US$20–30 for a sit-down lunch at the restaurant.

Cross the Brusio Spiral Viaduct

This is the engineering moment everyone waits for. The Brusio Spiral Viaduct is a nine-arch stone structure that loops 360 degrees, letting the train descend a steep gradient without a tunnel. From inside the train, you can see the other carriages curving ahead of you as you spiral down. It's a strange, beautiful piece of railway design, and it feels completely integrated into the landscape rather than imposed on it. Keep your camera ready—the best view is from the windows on the valley side.

Pause in Poschiavo for Italian Switzerland

Poschiavo has a distinctly Italian feel, with attractive architecture and excellent local food, without the crowds of St. Moritz. It's the best all-round stop for travelers who want to stretch their legs and experience local culture. Walk the old town, stop for lunch, and try the local cheeses and cured meats. The town is small enough to explore in an hour or two, and regional trains run frequently, so you can spend time without stressing about catching the next connection. A simple lunch or coffee stop will likely run US$15–25.

Experience the Season You Choose

The Bernina Express runs year-round, and each season changes the landscape completely. Winter brings frozen lakes, snow-covered forests, and a sense of remoteness that the other seasons can't match. You can leave a wintry Engadin in the morning and arrive in Tirano with a noticeably milder climate by afternoon. Summer offers green valleys and clear glacier views. Autumn brings golden larches. There's no wrong time to ride, but winter is the most dramatic if you're chasing atmosphere rather than comfort.

Arrive in Tirano and Actually Stay a While

Most passengers turn around at Tirano and head straight back. That's a mistake. Tirano is a proper Italian town with a Renaissance basilica right across from the station, a compact medieval old town, and food worth lingering for. Try the bresaola, the air-dried cured meat of the Valtellina valley, or a plate of sciatt, fried buckwheat fritters filled with melted cheese. Give yourself three or four hours before the return journey. A proper meal in Tirano will cost roughly US$20–35 per person depending on the restaurant. It's the difference between a train ride and a full day out.

Final Thoughts

The Bernina Express is not a theme park ride. It's a real railway crossing real mountains, and the best way to experience it is to treat it as part of your day rather than the whole thing. Book the panoramic car once for the novelty, but don't be afraid to use the regional trains to hop off and explore. Eat the pizzoccheri at Alp Grüm. Watch the spiral viaduct from the window. Spend a few hours in Tirano before heading back. That's how you turn a famous train journey into a trip you'll actually remember.