Hello there, readers. You expect a village place of worship to sit politely beside a road, maybe behind a low wall and a few gravestones.

Brentor does not do that. St Michael de Rupe sits on top of a cone of rock about 1,100 feet up, and you can see it from miles away across west Devon, a small tower stuck on a hill that looks like it was dropped there by accident.

Why the hill beats the building

The place of worship itself is small, maybe 60 feet long, and you'll spend more time outside it than in. What you get is the position. From the top you can see Dartmoor's high ground to the east and, on a clear day, the coast toward Plymouth to the south. The wind hits hard up there, and that's part of it. Bring a jacket even in July.

The climb is short, not easy

The path up from the car park takes maybe 15 minutes if you're steady on your feet, but it's steep and uneven in places, with loose stone near the top. Wear proper shoes. People do it in trainers, and people also slip. There's a bench partway up if you need to stop, and nobody will judge you for using it.

What to see once you're up

Inside, look for the old pews and the simple stonework, plus a small window that frames the moor below. The tower is the oldest part, dating to around the 13th century, and the body of the temple came later. Check the noticeboard by the gate for opening times, since the building isn't always unlocked. The churchyard around it is tiny, just a handful of graves on the rock.

Getting there and timing it right

Brentor sits about 5 miles north of Tavistock, off the A386, and there's a small free car park at the bottom of the hill. No train station, no bus worth relying on, so you'll want a car. Go early in the morning or late afternoon, because the middle of the day brings the coach crowds in summer. Entry to the place of worship is free, though a donation of a pound or two is the norm.

Practical bits worth knowing

There are no toilets or cafe at the site, so sort that out in Tavistock before you drive over. The hill is grazed by sheep and ponies at times, so keep dogs close. And check the weather forecast before you set off, because fog rolls in fast on that exposed top and turns the view into nothing at all.

Brentor isn't a place you build a whole day around. It's a 45-minute stop that stays with you longer than that, mostly because of how strange it feels to stand on a rock with a place of worship on it and nothing but moorland in every direction. If you're driving through west Devon, pull off the main road and walk up. You'll remember the wind more than the sermon.