On a warm afternoon, a scoop of homemade lemon ice cream makes a cool dessert. It has a smooth, creamy texture and balances the tang of fresh citrus with sweetness.

Most of the time this recipe takes is spent waiting for the mixture to chill or freeze. Start the custard the day before you plan to churn it so it has time to cool completely.

The Custard Base

Heavy cream gives the base its richness, while half-and-half keeps it from being too heavy. Egg yolks thicken the base as it cooks. The zest goes in while the cream is warm, so its fragrance has time to infuse the dairy.

Ingredients

For the custard and its citrus flavor, gather:

- 2 cups heavy cream

- 1 cup half-and-half

- 1 1/8 cups white sugar

- 3 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest

- 3/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

- 5 large egg yolks

This recipe makes about 10 servings.

Time and Equipment

Allow 15 minutes for prep and about 20 minutes for cooking. If you chill the custard for 8 hours rather than overnight, the recipe takes about 12 hours and 45 minutes in all, including the final freeze.

Have a saucepan with a lid, mixing bowls, a whisk, a fine grater, a measuring cup, a food thermometer, an ice cream maker, and a lidded freezer container ready before you start.

According to Pamela Schmutz, a retired Clemson University food safety specialist, a cooked base is safer than a raw egg mixture for homemade ice cream. Use the thermometer to confirm the custard reaches 160°F.

Steps

Measure the ingredients before turning on the stove so you can keep stirring once the custard starts to cook. Then follow these steps:

1. Prepare the lemons and eggs. Grate only the yellow outer layer of the peel, since the white layer underneath can taste bitter. Squeeze the lemons and set the juice aside. Separate the eggs and put the yolks in a mixing bowl.

2. Combine the heavy cream, half-and-half, sugar, and zest in the saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer over low heat and stir for about 5 minutes, until the sugar dissolves. Take the saucepan off the heat, cover it, and let the zest steep for 10 minutes.

3. Bring the cream mixture back to a gentle simmer over low heat. While it warms, whisk the yolks in their bowl until smooth.

4. Whisk about 1 cup of the warm cream mixture into the yolks, a few tablespoons at a time. Keep whisking as you pour. Adding the cream gradually warms the yolks without scrambling them.

5. Pour the yolk mixture back into the saucepan. Stir constantly over low heat until the custard coats the back of a spoon, about 5 to 10 minutes. Check that it reaches 160°F on a food thermometer. Do not let the custard boil, or it may turn lumpy.

6. Transfer the custard to a large heat-safe bowl, cover it, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. The custard should be cold all the way through before you churn it.

7. Pour the freshly squeezed juice into the cold custard gradually, stirring until evenly mixed. Adding the juice at this stage keeps its fresh flavor.

8. Pour the lemon custard into a 4- to 5-quart ice cream maker and churn it according to the manufacturer's instructions. The mixture should thicken to a soft, creamy consistency.

9. Transfer the churned ice cream to a freezer-safe container and spread it evenly. Cover it with a tight-fitting lid and freeze for about 4 hours, until firm.

If the ice cream is too firm to scoop straight from the freezer, let it sit on the counter briefly before serving.