A used car can look clean in photos and still have problems that aren't obvious until you see it in person.

A methodical inspection helps you decide whether a car is worth pursuing. The checks below cover what to look for yourself and what to leave to a mechanic.

Start with the paperwork

Before you touch a single panel, ask for the title, the service records, and the vehicle identification number (VIN). Oil change receipts give you a better picture of how the car was maintained than the seller's recollection alone. Check that the VIN on the title matches the one on the car.

Use the VIN to get a vehicle history report and look for reported collisions, flood damage, or signs that the mileage was rolled back. According to Peter Gareffa, an automotive journalist at Edmunds, a clean history report can miss significant damage if no one reported it. If the seller won't share the VIN, move on.

Look for paint and panel mismatches

Stand in daylight and scan the body panels from a shallow angle. A door or fender that's a slightly different shade or has a rougher texture than the panel next to it may have been repainted. Look for uneven gaps between panels, too. Neither clue tells you why the work was done.

If you know a panel is steel, compare how a small magnet wrapped in cloth grips different parts of it. A weak grip can suggest thick body filler. A magnet won't stick to aluminum or plastic, so a spot where it doesn't grab isn't proof of a repair.

Check the tires and the stance

Look for uneven tread wear, which can point to an alignment or suspension problem. Different tire brands alone don't prove poor maintenance. Also check that the car sits level on flat ground. If one corner sags, ask the mechanic to check the suspension.

The last four digits of the tire identification number on the sidewall give the week and year of manufacture. Check the car or tire manufacturer's replacement guidance even if the tread looks good. Look for cracks or bulges, and check the spare if the car has one.

Inspect under the hood and underneath

If the car has an oil dipstick, check the level and note any grit or a milky appearance. Color alone doesn't tell you whether the oil is in good condition. Look for fresh leaks around the valve cover or beneath the engine.

Use a flashlight to look for rust from beside the car. Don't crawl underneath it. Light surface rust on a bolt isn't the same as flaking metal on the frame. If you see heavy corrosion or can't tell how far it goes, point it out to the mechanic.

Test the electronics and the cabin

Try the air conditioning, heater, radio, window switches, door locks, and lights. If the air conditioning blows warm, note it rather than assuming the compressor is at fault. Check the seats and carpet for water stains or a musty smell, then look under the trunk floor for dampness.

Take the test drive seriously

Before setting off, check whether the brake pedal feels firm. If it feels spongy, skip the drive and tell the mechanic. Otherwise, allow at least 15 minutes for city streets and a stretch of highway. Listen for clunks over bumps and feel for vibration through the steering wheel.

Notice whether the car pulls to one side on a straight stretch or hesitates when you accelerate. After the drive, park on clean pavement and look for fresh drips. Some leaks aren't obvious until the engine has warmed up.

Get an independent inspection

Even if everything checks out, book a pre-purchase inspection at a shop you choose. RepairPal estimates US$186 to US$273 before taxes and fees; ask the shop for a local quote. A mechanic can use a lift to check for frame damage and worn suspension parts and scan the car for stored fault codes.

Ask for a written report that separates repairs the car needs now from work that can wait. Get estimates for the urgent work before deciding whether to negotiate the price or walk away.